Thalassa

There was a post earlier of the myriad tastes of Goa but in the various details of travel, the individual sort of got lost in the telling. So, this post is my attempt to do justice to this place by the sea - Thalassa. And apologies in advance if I tend to wax lyrical for a few extra paragraphs. I visited the place with my sister. We had taken a few days to gallivant around Goa. On that particular day, we had left early in the morning to travel our way around North Goa. As my sister likes to say - we travelled from Aguarda to Ashwen in a 9 to 5 frame. It was exhausting and absolutely exhilirating. We basically biked through all these places  - me at the wheel and my sister at the back google maps at the ready. It was a huge accomplishment. I dont think I have found a place anywhere in India where it has been  easy for a couple of women to travel around by themselves. And this is what I loved about Goa. We saw forts and their breathtaking views, we saw beaches and lost count of the number, we strolled around Anjuna Market - the beads and strings thrumming slightly at the wind coming in from the beach below, we went on a boat ride right into the ocean and saw dolphins gliding in the ocean water.  In the middle of all that we braked for a glass of chilled Kokum soda and toasted chutney and vegetable sandwiches. By the time we made it back to the room and get dressed - we were suntanned and pleasantly tired. But nothing would make us change into comfy pyjamas and just sleep our way to the next day. 

The view from Chapora Fort, Vagator, Goa

So we got dressed and were off. The time we arrived the sun was already touching the water. We made our way through the cobbled path passing the small shop, doors named after Greek gods[they mispelled Poseidon] and an exhibition of seafood on offer today. Finally we came to the restaurant - square tables with wicker chairs. The staff was placing lit candles on the tables. There was a crowd already their eyes glued to the sunset on the other side. And that is when you realize that the place is set on a low cliff and all you can see for miles is the darkening sea. We were ecstatic. As soon as we sat down the candle was placed and menus handed to us. And there were some really good ones. My only regret is that we could not eat our way through the many selections on the menu.

What my sister loved was the vegetarian options in the menu. She is a hard core vegetarian and her mission in life is to find places that serve good options that is not meat. And that is one of the attractions of the place. We ordered Mushroom Saganaki and a shot of Ouzo for starters. The Ouzo was aniseed flavored and warmed your throat as you shot it down and muttered an Opa under your breath. It puts you in a good mood and prepares your palate for the meal to come. In the next fifteen minutes the saganaki is placed in front of you with crusty bread drizzled with olive oil. Ravenous after our all day outing we broke chunks of bread, dippped into the saganaki sauce  and literally gobbled it down. We followed it with spoonfuls of mushrooms and melted Feta. It was pretty darn good. The flavors - the combination of feta, chili, garlic, mushrooms and tomatoes - was so complex and delicious with toasty bread.

 The appetizer was followed by Veg Souvlaki for my sister and Chicken Gyros for myself. Neither of us have a huge appetite. We cannot just keep on eating and eating. For us small portions are all we can manage. And the plates that they give are enormous. The Veg Souvlaki came wrapped in foil with lemony potato wedges, herb salad, pita triangles and tzatziki. The souvlaki was tender skewers of marinated paneer, onions, peppers and tomatoes. Mixing with wedges and the crunch of the salad it was an absolutely gorgeous medley of tastes. The Gyros, on the other hand, was a heaped plate of lemon, oregano roasted chicken, pita bread, tomato and onion salad, fries and tzatziki as well. You spread a pita triangle with tzatziki, put some chicken on top and take a huge mouthful. The crunch of the bread, combined with the yoghurt-herb dip and the melt-in-your-mouth chicken - I will remember that taste for a long time. The dish of the evening was definitely the Tzatziki - this was a yoghurt dip flavored with dill, cucumber, garlic and pepper. It highlighted both the meals so well. We were just dipping our pita bread or our potatoes in the dip and savoring its fresh herby tastes.

The platters were huge especially for the both of us. We barely mangaed to finish the food - we were so utterly full and were in no position to order anything else. I know that the next time I am in town I am going back to the desserts that they have on offer. The moon was high in the air above the rustling coconut trees. The sea was dark and the wind was starting to cool around us. It was time to leave and put the evening into our permanent memory boxes. So book a flight a Goa and find this place in North Goa and enjoy the comforts of a Greek evening.

Location: Thalassa, Vagator Beach, North Goa

What to try: Everything mentioned aboved, Also try the spanakorizo, spanakopita on offer

Rating: 4.5/5

A Taste of Goa

This is going to be a long post on the food that I have had the chance to experience in Goa. Let me just say that I have finally found the perfect place where all forms of cuisine come together in a beautiful symphony. And, no I am not high right now. Lets look at the checklist shall we? Dreamy, sunscape - check. Beach and water - check. Beautiful churches and architecture - check. Awesome, delicious food - check. You can also check the tripadvisor site for some great options for your travel itinerary

The View from Fort Aguarda, Goa

It is cliched - I know but moonlit walk down the beach with water lapping your feet - is one of the most beautiful feeling you could experience. The hair was a mess at the end of it but appetite was rolling. And we stopped for a snack at one of the beach shacks. Yes, it was all candlelights, waves and hot, crispy potato skins.

Day 2: Took a bus down to Old Goa through quaint cottages and ferries moving busily on water. It stopped right in front of Basilica of Bom Jesus. My sister and I visited all the churches in the area from Se Cathedral to St. Augustine Ruins. And the walk had to end with authentic Goan Cuisine. So we went down NH-17 all the way to Martin's Corner at Colva.

This place is an institution and no trip to Goa is complete without it. You sit on comfortable armchairs while live music is being played. There are stands with the catches of the day on display. Lobster, squid, prawns, fish all on ice for your perusal. We went for squid for appetizer which was not that great. It was tough and the butter drowned any flavor that it could have. But, the highlight of the dinner was definitely the Pork vindaloo with steamed rice and the Chicken Cafreal. If you do not like pork, you can go for the chicken or the prawns. Either one of them are a good choice. The Vindaloo is almost ketchupy in taste with spice notes dancing on the tongue. And the Cafreal - words fail short in describing the taste of this dish. So definitely give it a go.

Day 3: This was the day of North Goa where we went from Fort Aguarda to Ashwen Beach all on a Honda Pleasure.  And after the steep climb to Chapora Fort and back with its breathtaking view it was time to put on a dress for a Greek night at Thalassa, Vagator Beach. 

And it was totally worth it. We began with a shot of Ouzo, a Greek aniseed flavored drink.  There is a procedure to this - you drink it bottoms up and then slap the table while saying Opa. The author scared a couple of diners but she felt really good. We ordered the Mushroom Saganaki - the combination of feta, tomato, garlic which was to die for. The main course was Veg Souvlaki and Chicken Gyros. The quantities are so huge that you really dont need dessert afterwards. The chicken flavored with lemon and oregano and served with pita chips, tzatziki[yoghurt and garlic dip with cucumbers] and fries. Oh the author struggled with her plate but she could not stop stuffing herself. The sea below and the full moon flitting between the coconut trees was the perfect accompaniment.

Day 4: This was all down to South Goa. With its gorgeous houses and white sand beaches - we did not want to come back. Unfortunately the author was vegetarian for the day so dinner ended up being mushroon Xacuti and Garlic Cheese Naan. So vegetarians dont worry - While Goa may be inclined heavily towards the meat loving there are some great options for you guys. Like Mickeys at Colva where you can have Korean Pot Rice and KungPao Paneer to accompany it. Or Claudi's Corner at Bogmalo Beach where the author had delicious Xacuti with Garlic Cheese Naan. The latter was a delicious discovery. The chesse is layered inside the naan and sprinkled on top for an all cheese effect. Having it with the spicy, coconuty Mushroom curry was a match made in heaven.
So finally - the verdict. Go forth and treat your tastebuds to one of the most delicious places in all of India. And you will be happy at the end of it whichever way you lean.